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Tech support scam with remote access to your device

You called or were called by fake 'support' and granted remote access — funds moved or persistent access installed.

Realistic recovery rate
30–60%

Two losses to consider: the funds moved, and the persistent access. Remote-access tools (AnyDesk, TeamViewer, ScreenConnect) need to be uninstalled and the device scanned. If banking sessions happened, treat the device as compromised until cleaned by a trusted technician.

Do this first

Disconnect the device from the internet now. From a different, clean device: change passwords for banking, email, and any account accessed during the session. Then call the bank's fraud line and dispute any moved funds.

Calls to make first

Phone calls move faster than online filings, especially in the first 24–48 hours. Make these calls before, or while, you work through the templated filings below.

  1. 1. Your bank's fraud department

    Most major US banks: 24/7
    On the back of your card, or look up '[your bank name] fraud department'

    What to say: Say: 'I'm a victim of fraud and need to file a dispute.' Ask for a dispute reference number before hanging up. Email any documents they request the same day.

    Why this one: Where the money lives. This is the single most important call — it starts the formal dispute timer and, for card fraud, usually triggers provisional credit within 10 business days.

  2. 2. Your card issuer's fraud line

    24/7 for major issuers
    On the back of the card

    What to say: Say: 'I have fraudulent charges on my card and need to file a dispute.' You can also mention the legal rules that protect you — Regulation Z for credit, Regulation E for debit — but you don't have to. Ask for a new card while you're on the call.

    Why this one: Federal law limits how much you can be charged for fraud on your card: $50 maximum on a credit card. The same $50 cap on a debit card applies only if you report within 2 business days; wait longer and the cap rises to $500. Calling fast matters.

  3. 3. Your local police non-emergency line

    24/7 for non-emergency; online forms available anytime
    Search '[your city] police non-emergency' or 311 in many cities. Online report option exists in most US cities.

    What to say: Say: 'I want to file a police report for fraud. I'm not asking for an investigation — I need a case number for my bank and federal filings.' Get the case number in writing or by email.

    Why this one: The case number is the deliverable. Most departments do not investigate losses under ~$5,000, but the case number is required by many banks for dispute processing and by the FTC identity-theft flow.

Find your bank's official fraud page

Each link goes to the bank's main domain. The current fraud phone number lives on that page — call the number listed there, or the one printed on the back of your card. Don't trust phone numbers found in a search result.

Don't see your bank? Type its name into a search engine with the words "report fraud" and only follow a link whose domain matches the bank's main website. Scammers buy ads on bank-name searches; the top result is not always real.

Free, official help from a real person

If you'd like to talk to someone before filing, these are free public services. They cannot recover funds for you, but they will walk you through what to do next.

  • AARP Fraud Watch Helpline — 877-908-3360. Free, 7 days/week, you do not need to be an AARP member or over 50. Trained volunteers who specialize in scam recovery guidance.
  • FTC ReportFraud advisor — reportfraud.ftc.gov. After filing, the FTC sometimes connects you with a consumer- advice specialist.
  • FTC IdentityTheft.gov — identitytheft.gov. Best place to start if your Social Security number, accounts, or personal information were exposed.
  • FBI IC3 — ic3.gov. Federal intake for internet-enabled crime.
  • CFPB — consumerfinance.gov/complaint. Use this if your bank refuses your fraud dispute.
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