Other scam type
A scam that doesn't cleanly fit the categories above.
When the category isn't clear, file the universal channels. Recovery odds depend on the payment method used; the documentation pack below is what you'll need either way.
Do this first
File the universal channels — IC3, FTC ReportFraud, local police report — and dispute with any bank or card involved in the transfer.
Calls to make first
Phone calls move faster than online filings, especially in the first 24–48 hours. Make these calls before, or while, you work through the templated filings below.
1. Your bank's fraud department
Most major US banks: 24/7On the back of your card, or look up '[your bank name] fraud department'What to say: Say: 'I'm a victim of fraud and need to file a dispute.' Ask for a dispute reference number before hanging up. Email any documents they request the same day.
Why this one: Where the money lives. This is the single most important call — it starts the formal dispute timer and, for card fraud, usually triggers provisional credit within 10 business days.
2. Your local police non-emergency line
24/7 for non-emergency; online forms available anytimeSearch '[your city] police non-emergency' or 311 in many cities. Online report option exists in most US cities.What to say: Say: 'I want to file a police report for fraud. I'm not asking for an investigation — I need a case number for my bank and federal filings.' Get the case number in writing or by email.
Why this one: The case number is the deliverable. Most departments do not investigate losses under ~$5,000, but the case number is required by many banks for dispute processing and by the FTC identity-theft flow.
3. AARP Fraud Watch Helpline
Mon–Fri 8am–8pm ETWhat to say: Free helpline staffed by trained volunteers. Walk through your situation; they'll help you decide what to file first. You do not have to be an AARP member or over 50.
Why this one: If you'd like to talk to a real person before doing any of the filings. They cannot recover funds for you, but they will help you think through the order.
4. FTC consumer line
Mon–Fri 9am–8pm ETWhat to say: General consumer-fraud helpline. They will direct you to the right specific channel — most people end up at ReportFraud.ftc.gov anyway, but the call routes anyone unsure.
Why this one: If you're not sure where to start and prefer a phone call to a web form.
Find your bank's official fraud page
Each link goes to the bank's main domain. The current fraud phone number lives on that page — call the number listed there, or the one printed on the back of your card. Don't trust phone numbers found in a search result.
- Chasewww.chase.com
- Bank of Americawww.bankofamerica.com
- Wells Fargowww.wellsfargo.com
- Citiwww.citi.com
- Capital Onewww.capitalone.com
Don't see your bank? Type its name into a search engine with the words "report fraud" and only follow a link whose domain matches the bank's main website. Scammers buy ads on bank-name searches; the top result is not always real.
Free, official help from a real person
If you'd like to talk to someone before filing, these are free public services. They cannot recover funds for you, but they will walk you through what to do next.
- AARP Fraud Watch Helpline — 877-908-3360. Free, 7 days/week, you do not need to be an AARP member or over 50. Trained volunteers who specialize in scam recovery guidance.
- FTC ReportFraud advisor — reportfraud.ftc.gov. After filing, the FTC sometimes connects you with a consumer- advice specialist.
- FTC IdentityTheft.gov — identitytheft.gov. Best place to start if your Social Security number, accounts, or personal information were exposed.
- FBI IC3 — ic3.gov. Federal intake for internet-enabled crime.
- CFPB — consumerfinance.gov/complaint. Use this if your bank refuses your fraud dispute.