Identity theft — accounts opened or SSN used in your name
Someone has used your personal information to open accounts or commit fraud — different from a single fraudulent charge.
Identity theft is the one category where the FTC runs a guided recovery flow that produces a legally accepted Identity Theft Report — identitytheft.gov walks you through it. When fraudulent accounts are challenged using that report, more than 80% of cases are resolved in the victim's favor, according to published FTC data.
Do this first
Go to identitytheft.gov and walk through the FTC's recovery process. It produces an official Identity Theft Report that banks and creditors are required by law to accept. Then place a free credit freeze with all three credit bureaus — Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion.
Calls to make first
Phone calls move faster than online filings, especially in the first 24–48 hours. Make these calls before, or while, you work through the templated filings below.
1. Your card issuer's fraud line
24/7 for major issuersOn the back of the cardWhat to say: Say: 'I have fraudulent charges on my card and need to file a dispute.' You can also mention the legal rules that protect you — Regulation Z for credit, Regulation E for debit — but you don't have to. Ask for a new card while you're on the call.
Why this one: Federal law limits how much you can be charged for fraud on your card: $50 maximum on a credit card. The same $50 cap on a debit card applies only if you report within 2 business days; wait longer and the cap rises to $500. Calling fast matters.
2. Your local police non-emergency line
24/7 for non-emergency; online forms available anytimeSearch '[your city] police non-emergency' or 311 in many cities. Online report option exists in most US cities.What to say: Say: 'I want to file a police report for fraud. I'm not asking for an investigation — I need a case number for my bank and federal filings.' Get the case number in writing or by email.
Why this one: The case number is the deliverable. Most departments do not investigate losses under ~$5,000, but the case number is required by many banks for dispute processing and by the FTC identity-theft flow.
3. AARP Fraud Watch Helpline
Mon–Fri 8am–8pm ETWhat to say: Free helpline staffed by trained volunteers. Walk through your situation; they'll help you decide what to file first. You do not have to be an AARP member or over 50.
Why this one: If you'd like to talk to a real person before doing any of the filings. They cannot recover funds for you, but they will help you think through the order.
Find your bank's official fraud page
Each link goes to the bank's main domain. The current fraud phone number lives on that page — call the number listed there, or the one printed on the back of your card. Don't trust phone numbers found in a search result.
- Chasewww.chase.com
- Bank of Americawww.bankofamerica.com
- Wells Fargowww.wellsfargo.com
- Citiwww.citi.com
- Capital Onewww.capitalone.com
Don't see your bank? Type its name into a search engine with the words "report fraud" and only follow a link whose domain matches the bank's main website. Scammers buy ads on bank-name searches; the top result is not always real.
Free, official help from a real person
If you'd like to talk to someone before filing, these are free public services. They cannot recover funds for you, but they will walk you through what to do next.
- AARP Fraud Watch Helpline — 877-908-3360. Free, 7 days/week, you do not need to be an AARP member or over 50. Trained volunteers who specialize in scam recovery guidance.
- FTC ReportFraud advisor — reportfraud.ftc.gov. After filing, the FTC sometimes connects you with a consumer- advice specialist.
- FTC IdentityTheft.gov — identitytheft.gov. Best place to start if your Social Security number, accounts, or personal information were exposed.
- FBI IC3 — ic3.gov. Federal intake for internet-enabled crime.
- CFPB — consumerfinance.gov/complaint. Use this if your bank refuses your fraud dispute.